How to rent a car in Tbilisi, Georgia: Our complete guide with tips, costs, and driving rules

Jvari Monastery and our rented car in Georgia

Nine days in the land of khinkali and khachapuri, nearly 2,000 kilometers driven across local roads — and here it is: My big guide to driving in Georgia in 2025. We covered EVERYTHING from Kakheti to Batumi, from Stepantsminda to Borjomi, and plenty more in between.

Here’s what I’m going to write about:

  • First, the basics you really need to know — where it’s better to book a car, what to look out for when choosing a rental, what kind of car do you need for Georgia, whether you can do without renting an SUV here, and how much car rentals actually cost
  • Then I’ll get into insurance, deductibles, and deposits (you can find cars with a minimal deposit or even none at all, like in our case!)
  • After that, I’ll talk about Georgian traffic rules, road conditions, speed limits, and why local driving might make you nervous
  • And finally, I’ll share where you can actually go by car from Tbilisi, the jaw-dropping scenery you’ll pass, and how to plan the perfect Georgia road trip

Article contents

  1. What car did we drive in Georgia?
  2. Do you need a car in Georgia at all?
  3. Requirements for drivers
  4. 2 services I use for renting cars abroad
  5. What are the car rental prices in Georgia?
  6. Insurance, deductibles, and deposits
  7. Georgian traffic rules, speed limits, road conditions
  8. Parking, navigation, fines
  9. 3 beautiful road trip routes
  10. My final thoughts (+ a list of hotels with parking in Tbilisi, Batumi, and Kakheti)
  11. What if you decided against renting a car?..

What car did we drive in Georgia? My essential tips

Street parking in Kutaisi

Quick introduction: There were two of us, we scored some pretty cheap tickets to Georgia in August, and flew in on a direct flight via Georgian Airways. We landed in Tbilisi where our rental car was waiting right at the airport. To really see all the highlights of Georgia, I’d say you need at least two weeks. Since this wasn’t our first trip, we packed our route into nine days.

For Georgia, I went with a compact crossover — a three-year-old Toyota C-HR with a 1,2-liter engine. And it handled local roads and mountain switchbacks like a champ! By 2025, Georgian roads have gotten much better (compared to our first time back in 2018), which means:

  • For most routes, a standard sedan or crossover will do just fine. An SUV is only really necessary in the winter or if you’re planning to reach remote spots.

Even the road up to the Gergeti Trinity Church (with its stunning Kazbek views) is now perfectly manageable without hiring a 4WD. Same goes for the Green Lake in Adjara. And even mountainous region of Svaneti is slowly but surely getting a network of well-paved, passable roads. So yeah, forget about the old Mitsubishi Pajeros — you don’t need those in Georgia anymore.

For everyday needs in the city, you don’t need a car at all. In Tbilisi and Batumi, Bolt is the way to go. But if you want to explore the areas around these cities, four wheels are a must. Relying on local minibuses (called marshrutkas) is… let’s say less than convenient — both in terms of schedules and comfort.

How much does renting a car in Tbilisi cost? In our case, $48 per day. That included full coverage (super CDW) with a zero deductible (that’s the amount you’d have to pay if something happened to a car) and no deposit required. For nine August days that came to $432 total, plus around $120 for gas.

Car rental services in Tbilisi, Kutaisi, and Batumi

Website #1 — this is where I booked my car this time. I paid a 15% car rent deposit on the website, then paid the rest in cash when I picked up the car. I use this service pretty much everywhere they operate (about 40 countries). I’ve already got upcoming bookings with them for Montenegro and Albania this fall. What’s special about them is that they partner with local rental companies. And their support’s response time always blows me away — none of that “we’ll get back to you within 24 hours” stuff! Plus, you can often find cars with no deposit at all (there’s even a filter for that). Another perk: You book a specific car, whereas big-name rental platforms usually only guarantee you a class of vehicle.

Website #2 — this is one of those “big platforms”. My tried-and-true backup option. Terms are generally similar to the first site: They work with both local and international companies, some cars come without a deposit (but fewer than on the first site). You can also add full coverage insurance directly from the platform itself, which is much cheaper than buying it from the rental agency. The only downside I’ve noticed: There’s no live support — they only reply within 24 hours.

Rent a car in Tbilisi without deposit

Here are some things to know before renting a car in the country of Georgia:

  1. You don’t need an international driver’s permit (IDP) to rent a car in Georgia.
  2. It’s possible to find cars with no deposit, no deductible, and no credit card required (I booked this Toyota C-HR on Localrent under exactly those terms).
  3. If you go through platforms like Discovercars or big brands like Hertz or Avis, you will need a card with embossed numbers in the driver’s name — and often it has to be a credit card.
  4. If you’re planning a summer trip, book your car at least a month in advance. Two to three months is even better! Rentals aren’t cheap (around $40 a day on average), and new cars are limited, so they get snapped up fast.
  5. Most cars in Georgia are used imports from the US or Europe. To put it mildly, they’ve seen better days. In many car rental companies, only about 10% of the cars are relatively new. That’s why you’ll often see vehicles on Georgian roads in pretty rough condition.
  6. The longer you rent, the better the deal. For example, a 3-day rental might run you $48 a day, but a 7-day rental drops to $40 day.
  7. Sometimes the rental office is in town while you need the car right at the airport. Delivery is always an option. For example, having my car delivered to Tbilisi Airport only added $10 to the total so I didn’t have to use the Tbilisi airport car rental.
  8. When you pick up the car, always take photos and videos. That way, if someone later asks “what’s this scratch on the bumper?” you have proof that it was already there. Most cars in Georgia (even the newer ones) have some scratches or dents.
  9. Sometimes the rental agreement requires you to return the car clean. In Tbilisi and nearby, self-service car washes are cheap — 2 GEL ($0,8) is enough to wash both the car and yourself. Full-service washes run about 10 GEL ($3,8). Either way, don’t bring it back filled with empty Kindzmarauli bottles and half-eaten churchkhela — not the best look.

Is it worth renting a car in Georgia?

on the road in Georgia

Should you rent a car in Georgia? For me, this question never even came up. Whenever it makes sense, I do it. And in Georgia, we really wanted to drive across the whole country: Through vineyards, along the Georgian Military Highway at my own pace, and finally tackle the hikes we’d bookmarked for years. In short, we wanted a custom route that fit us perfectly, without wasting time on logistics between stops.

When you don’t need a car in Georgia:

  • If you’re fine with tours and your plans don’t go beyond the classic “Tbilisi, Georgian Military Highway, and Kakheti” set — that’s more than enough for a first trip.
  • Or if your idea of a trip is spending your days entirely in Tbilisi or just sunbathing in Batumi. In those cases, a car really isn’t necessary. Both cities are easy and cheap to get around by taxi, and Tbilisi also has a metro.

But exploring the country without a car is tough, especially if you want to reach the most beautiful spots and drive through the scenic roads. Marshrutkas are an option, but they eat up a ton of time. The only public transit routes I’d actually call decent are the marshrutka to Mtskheta and the Tbilisi–Batumi train. But I’d still chose at least one way car rental Tbilisi to Batumi option over it, because otherwise you miss all the amazing stops along the way. And trust me, there are plenty.

Reviews about renting a car in Georgia are endless, and for good reason:

  • Georgia is a small country, perfect for exploring by car. For example, the two-lane road from Tbilisi to Batumi is 360 km long and takes about five hours.
  • There are tons of wineries you can only reach by car, and some incredible hikes (like the trail from Juta to Chaukhi Lake or to the Gveleti waterfalls) that no one will take you to unless you drive yourself.
  • The roads in Georgia have gotten significantly better. They’re even building a tunnel along the Georgian Military Highway to bypass its roughest (but most beautiful) stretch. No one knows what will happen to the old road, so go now — it’s one of the most stunning routes I’ve driven in over 50 countries.

That said, I’ll still recommend two tours. One I regret skipping as a driver and one we booked last-minute and absolutely loved (we learned more about Tbilisi in four hours than we had in all my trips before):

Wine tour from Tbilisi to Kakheti ($37 per person, 1,750+ reviews!)

4-hour Tbilisi city tour ($32 per person, 990+ reviews)

Requirements for car rental in Tbilisi (Georgia)

our rented Toyota

So, what are the driving license requirements in Georgia?

🔹They’re pretty simple: Just a valid category B driver’s license from your home country

🔹Next, you’ll need to be at least 23 years old with a minimum of 3 years of driving experience

🔹If you’re between 18 and 21 or your driving record is shorter, you can still find a car, but your options will be limited

The key thing: Renting a car in Tbilisi (or any in other city in Georgia) with your national driver’s license, whether you’re from the US, Europe, or elsewhere, is totally fine, no questions asked. You don’t need an International Driver’s Permit, that little gray paper booklet. But if you already have an IDP — or it’s easy for you to get one — it’s still smart to bring it along. Local police might ask for it in case you ever get into an accident.

You’ll also need your passport and a credit card or USD in cash to put down the deposit. If you only have a debit card and are trying to figure out how to rent a car in Tbilisi without credit card, just use Localrent service and its “Deposit ➡️ Cash or Debit card” filter for booking.

Where to rent a car in Georgia?

Localrent screenshot

Almost anywhere in the world, I stick with one of two websites:

  • Localrent — lets you rent a car in Georgia without a deposit
  • DiscoverCars — partners with big-name rentals that usually have fresher cars

The final choice depends on price, and whether my card (which I use only for rentals) has enough dollars/euros on it for deposit. Sure, you could try renting on the spot by walking into offices you find on Google Maps, but it’s not the most reliable option. If something goes wrong, you’re stuck dealing with the rental company directly with no third party to back you up. Personally, I wouldn’t want that. Plus, in summer, you won’t be able to just kick the door open and grab a car at some cheap car hire in Tbilisi last-minute — everything gets booked out!

One advantage with local Georgian companies, though: Sometimes they don’t care much about age or driving experience. So if you got your license recently, you might still score a car this way.

Let’s do a little experiment: Say, we’re renting a car for a week. Here are 2025 rental prices in Georgia from a few major services:

Car category Localrent Discovercars Rentalcars
Compact (Kia Picanto or Honda Fit) from $27 a day from $40 a day from $40 a day
Crossover (Subaru or Nissan) from $35 from $60 from $60
Mid-size (Prius or Elantra) from $35 from $40 from $40

From experience, it’s always better to book online. Aggregator sites list way more cars than any single rental company, and prices are usually much lower.

So why does Localrent stand out in price so much? First, they’ve been around in Georgia forever, and they run things really efficiently. Second, their whole approach is different: Instead of working with the big players like Avis or Hertz, they partner with local agencies. That means cheaper rates and more flexible terms. That’s also why they offer a big selection of cars with no deposit.

You pay a 15% advance with any card to lock in your booking, and then you hand the rest to the manager in cash when you sign the contract. Rental through their site in Georgia is noticeably cheaper, straightforward, and transparent. Plus, they give detailed info about the cars — from year of manufacture to interior photos. If there is a deposit (about half the time there isn’t), it’s usually $200–$300 in cash, and it’s refunded when you return the car. No freezing money on your card for weeks!

Remember how I mentioned lots of cars in Georgia are old and beat up? That’s why I recommend immediately setting a filter for car age (no older than 3–5 years). Only Localrent has that feature. On the flip side, with the “international guys” — Surprice, Thrifty, Budget — the fleets are probably decent overall, but I wouldn’t bet on it. The Georgian car market is just… very particular.

When you compare platforms that list international rentals with those that list local agencies, the locals almost always come out about 30% cheaper.

Car rental prices in Georgia by season and city

car rental prices in Georgia by month

Now let’s compare the prices for renting a car in Tbilisi, Batumi and Kutaisi. I picked one model (from 2020 or newer) for consistency.

Batumi has the highest rental rates, while renting a car in Kutaisi is a little cheaper, and Tbilisi usually has the best deals (more competition, more variety). But here’s the big change in recent years: Now you can fly into Kutaisi and rent a car directly, without paying extra for delivery from Tbilisi. That’s especially convenient since lots of European travelers fly into Georgia through Kutaisi, thanks to WizzAir flights from all over the continent.

Month Tbilisi Kutaisi Batumi
September from $29 a day from $40 a day from $38 a day
October $34 $30 $27
December $22 $29 $35
May $26 $27 $35

The gap between cities used to be much bigger, but now prices have mostly leveled out, with only a slight seasonal swing. In October–November, rates are pretty similar everywhere, while in high season (June–September), renting a car in Batumi and Kutaisi come out a bit more expensive.

In peak summer season, it’s best to book online ahead of time. The tourist rush can ruin any “I’ll just grab a car when I get there” plan. If you wait until the last minute, you might not find the model you want — and prices will skyrocket, often into “luxury car” territory for what’s likely to be an old beater.

Short breakdown of the car renting process

near Kutaisi

Here’s how I usually book a car (especially helpful if it’s your first time renting abroad):

  • Figure out your route first. How many days do you actually need a car for? Further down in this article, I share a few road trip ideas from Tbilisi.
  • Pick the type of car. For Kakheti, Borjomi, or Batumi, a regular car works fine. If you’re heading into the mountains, you’ll need an SUV with high undercarriage clearance for some of them. Same goes if you’re driving the Georgian Military Highway in winter.
  • Filter out what doesn’t fit. Not into manual transmission? Click it off. Traveling in winter? Tick the box for winter tires. And definitely check the car’s age. Personally, I never rent anything older than three years in Georgia. And only Localrent lets you filter by a year of manufacture. On other platforms, you won’t even know the model until you’re handed the keys.
  • Check the details. Gas or diesel, FWD or AWD, mileage rules, photos — read it all.
  • Look for mileage limits. Rare, but some rentals have them. You can filter by “unlimited mileage” and “no deposit” to narrow things down.
  • If you’re landing in Tbilisi, I recommend picking up the car right at the airport, especially if you’re heading straight to Kakheti (like we did). Fill in the “pickup location” box when booking.
  • Click on the car that catches your eye, check the insurance and deposit conditions. Happy with what you see? Enter your info, pay the advance, and wait for your trip!

Side note: Friends of ours flew to Gudauri for New Year’s, booked a ten-year-old 4×4 rental in Tbilisi with winter tires… and when they picked it up, the all-wheel drive didn’t work. Moral of the story: Book newer cars — less chance they’ll fall apart on you.

Moreover, old SUVs often cost about the same as a compact car, but they burn gas three times faster. I spent about $120 on fuel for the Toyota; with a Pajero or Land Cruiser, you’re looking at $300.

Insurance, deductibles, and deposits

types of car insurance in Georgia

In Georgia, it’s pretty easy to find a car with a “cash deposit” option. Some agencies prefer not to freeze money on your credit card and instead just hold a cash deposit. Others skip deposits altogether.

— On Localrent, you’ll see whether a deposit is required right on the booking page.

— On Discovercars, you have to dig into the fine print under “rental conditions” to see the deposit and insurance details (always worth reading carefully).

Here’s my advice for Georgia specifically. Along with the standard third party liability and collision damage waiver, add super collision damage waiver (super CDW) or just book a car with full insurance. It usually covers everything, including wheels and glass. Even if you’re a confident driver, you never know what other people will do. In nine days, I saw several crashes — two happened right in front of me, and in one case we could have been involved. A marshrutka driver zoned out, braked too late, swerved, and ended up hitting another car instead of us.

Deductible (aka franchise in Europe): This is the amount you’ll personally cover if the car is damaged or in an accident. For example, if someone scratches your door in a parking lot. Anything beyond that is covered by insurance. In Georgia, deductibles aren’t that common, but always read the contract and check. On Localrent, you can see this info right in the car listing under “Comparison of Insurance Policies”. If it says “No deductible”, great — you’re safe. If not, it’ll show your share, usually between $100–$500. Most often, the deductible equals the deposit.

How to avoid deductibles? Look for rentals that include Super CDW or full coverage.

Georgian traffic rules, speed limits, and road conditions

Road in Georgia

A Georgian friend once told me: “Speed is in our blood”. You notice it instantly in their driving style and in the number of cars cruising around without bumpers!

People here definitely like to push it, but it’s not as chaotic as it sounds. The sketchiest part, in my opinion, is when they overtake on mountain curves. That’s when you slow down and pull to the side.

Traffic rules are basically the same as anywhere else, but there are a few local quirks:

  • On mountain one-lane roads, there’s an unwritten rule: If someone honks before overtaking, it’s not aggressive — it just means “passing, don’t block me”.

Tbilisi also has some uncommon traffic setups:

  • Heroes Square: A massive roundabout that makes zero sense at first. I missed my exit even with GPS. Later, a taxi driver explained: It’s designed so you circle once as a tribute to fallen heroes before taking your exit.
  • Chavchavadze Avenue: Here, the bus lane isn’t on the right like normal. Nope, it’s on the left and even runs against traffic.

Speed limits

Speed limits in GEorgia

❗️In town: 40–60 km/h

❗️Outside town: 80–110 km/h

❗️There’s some leeway: You can exceed by 15 km/h without a fine. Some say 20, though — I was told that by a rental agent and followed it. Later, I saw official sources that said 15. Either way, I didn’t get any tickets.

Cameras are everywhere: Regular speed traps and smart cameras that measure your average speed across sections of road. Fines range from 50 to 300 GEL ($19 to $110).

The requirements for driving in Georgia are standard: Seatbelts on, headlights at night and in bad weather, and obviously don’t drink and drive. Anything above 0.3 per mille blood alcohol and your license can be taken on the spot.

Roads in Georgia

Georgian Military Highway

Since our last trip years ago, the roads have gotten noticeably better. You’ll still find plenty of old blog posts warning that taking a regular car to Svaneti is basically a death sentence for your tires. But nope, not anymore. By the end of 2024, most of that route was totally manageable. You can drive from Kutaisi through Ushguli to Mestia (a stunning route, by the way) on smooth paved roads.

  • The one truly awful exception is the road from Borjomi to Batumi via Akhaltsikhe. But don’t worry — your GPS won’t even suggest it, so chances of ending up there are slim.

Here’s a rundown of what I’ve seen on the main routes:

Kakheti (lots of police here). Traffic here isn’t stressful — there aren’t many cars, and while some roads are a little confusing, most are just fine. The Tbilisi–Telavi road winds through the mountains: One lane, tight turns, meh road surface. A small car can handle it fine, but you need to stay sharp. Tbilisi–Sighnaghi is half divided highway, half one-lane road, with better pavement overall.

Georgian Military Highway and gudauri viewpoint

Georgian Military Highway. Absolutely breathtaking, but you need some driving skills. Sharp switchbacks, a single lane the whole way, and the occasional crater-sized pothole. Always packed with trucks and fearless minivans.

Tbilisi–Borjomi, Borjomi–Kutaisi. Solid roads, no complaints. Expect traffic jams near Borjomi, though.

Tbilisi–Batumi. This is the main route across the country, and if someone asks me, “How do I get from Tbilisi to Batumi?”, my answer is — by car. The highway starts off as a nice divided road (speed limit 110 km/h), but near Samtredia it switches to country road style: 80 km/h, railway crossings, and massive traffic jams.

Road from Tbilisi to Batumi

Road to Juta village. From the Stepantsminda road to the village of Akhaltsikhe (same name as the town in the southwest), it’s paved. After that, you’ve got 6 km of gravel that turns into mush when it rains. About 3 km before Juta, there’s a checkpoint: No further by car, road is under repair. Your options are leaving your car for 10 GEL and walk or paying 30 GEL for a taxi ride. No way around it, you’ll have to pick one. And honestly, the road beyond the barrier does look sketchy.

Road to Juta village

You’ll also occasionally hit surprise gravel patches near tourist sites or long stretches where the asphalt’s been scraped off. I’d love to say that means they’re about to repave, but I didn’t see a single crew or machine out there. Still, a regular car can handle it just fine.

A couple of tips on driving in Georgia that are always worth repeating:

  • Download the 112 Georgia app before your trip — if you’re in an accident, you can call the police and send your location in just a few taps.
  • Stay connected with your rental company via WhatsApp so you can reach out anytime.

And if all these explanations seem a bit too text-heavy, check out our video about renting a car in Georgia. We filmed it while actually doing it:

Parking, navigation, and fines

Parking in Tbilisi Parking ticket machine in Tbilsii

Let’s start with parking

In Georgia, the general rule outside of Tbilisi and Batumi is park wherever, it’s free. At some big tourist spots along the Georgian Military Highway or in Kakheti, you might see a 3–5 GEL fee.

Tbilisi and Batumi are a totally different story, though.

Tbilisi. The whole city’s covered with paid parking. Thankfully, it’s cheap — 1 GEL per hour ($0,4) around the clock. The catch is that most spots are almost always full.

How we managed: I booked hotels with parking. Rooms Hotel and Artizan both had underground parking, free for guests (or 5 GEL per hour for non-guests). Another hotel, Communal Plekhanovi, had no parking, but I found a spot on the street and left the car for 18 hours and 18 GEL.

How to pay for parking in Tbilisi: Either through the Tbilisi Parking app (App Store, simple registration with your passport and email, no Georgian SIM required) or at the orange street machines with cash (no change given). No need to put the receipt on your dashboard.

Our car on the street parking in Tbilisi parking ticket in Tbilisi

Batumi is a parking nightmare. There’s almost nowhere to park, and even fewer hotels offer it. That alone says a lot. I debated between the local Marriott and a guesthouse outside the center. We ended up at the hotel, but even there were only 12 spaces. If you’re driving, plan ahead.

Parking fines are 50 GEL (about $19). You can’t pay on the spot — you have 30 days to pay online, at a terminal, at a bank, or through your rental company. If you miss the deadline, the fine grows with late fees.

You can check if you have any fines on a special website (only works in Georgia). If you ignore them, next time you might be denied entry at the border.

As for traffic rules: enforcement is pretty relaxed. Not yielding to pedestrians is sadly common. On the flip side, jaywalking used to be everywhere in Tbilisi, so now the law cracks down on that too.

Navigation

Google navigation in Georgia country

Don’t rely on Google Maps here as they’re pretty clueless about actual road conditions in Georgia. Instead, use Organic Maps or Yandex Maps. I stuck with Organic Maps, and it always routed me on paved roads. The difference is especially obvious when you try to find the viewpoint at Batumi’s Gonio Cross. Google will cheerfully send you along what looks like an easy road, except it’s not a road at all. Organic Maps takes you the long way around, but at least it’s passable. And this was hands down the most stressful stretch we drove.

Gas & gas stations

gas station in Georgia near Tbilisi

I always chose stations where an attendant was on duty. They’d take cash, ask what kind of fuel I needed, and fill it up for me. Most stations have kiosks, but they often look abandoned. You can still pay with a card right at the pump or hand cash to the attendant. At smaller stations it’s not always obvious which nozzle is 95 — everything’s written in Georgian. I steered clear of the sketchy-looking stations — luckily, there’s no shortage of gas stations of all kinds. On some streets you’ll find five of them in a row.

Fuel prices in Georgia are at 3,2 GEL / $1,1 for gas and 3,3 GEL / $1,2 for diesel.

Three most beautiful road trip routes in Georgia

viewpoint gergeti church

Below, I’ve laid out a few fun road trip routes from Tbilisi (our full Georgia road trip itinerary coming soon, so stay touched!). But first, two destinations to avoid when road-tripping Georgia.

Trans-Adjarian Highway

The ultimate trap! On Google Maps, it looks like a perfectly fine road, practically begging you to drive from Borjomi to Batumi. In reality, it’s barely a road at all — it’s narrow, dangerous, with constant landslides and rockfalls. That “easy” 200 km will take you 8 hours, and somewhere along the way you’ll curse your life choices, remember your mom, dad, and every saint you know, and wonder why you came to Georgia in the first place.

Tusheti

An insanely beautiful mountain region, but don’t even think about getting here by a rental car. Half the rental companies will snatch back the keys if you say the word “Tusheti”. Regular cars aren’t allowed, and even not every 4WD can handle those roads. Only go with a local driver who knows the terrain.

And now, the good stuff.

The Georgian Military Highway

Mtskheta viewpoint

🔹Route: Tbilisi — Mtskheta — Gudauri — Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) — Tbilisi
🔹Best season: May to September; outside of that, snow often blocks the road

This is the perfect one-day trip from Tbilisi to Kazbegi by rental car. You can do it in a regular car — the road’s sometimes narrow but well-paved. The drive itself is gorgeous, with tons of viewpoints along the way. Leave early in the morning so you have time to see everything and get back before dark. We left at 7 a.m. and rolled into our final stop around 1 p.m. We stayed overnight at the legendary Rooms Hotel Kazbegi (totally worth it).

The Georgian Military Highway

Here are the main stops:

  • Mtskheta. Usually the first stop on this route since it’s literally just outside the city, but I’d actually skip it here and spend more time in the mountains — you can always reach Mtskheta later by public transport.
  • Zhinvali Reservoir viewpoint. Stunning turquoise water panorama.
  • Ananuri Fortress. Don’t linger too long — a couple of photos is enough. The view from the bridge is great!
  • Pasanauri. It’s said to be the birthplace of khinkali. They do make them well here, but I suggest stopping on the way back (most restaurants are closed in the morning). Last time we had dinner at 1892 Pasanauri — super cozy and cheap.

Juta–Chaukhi Lake hike

Then the mountain switchbacks begin, climbing toward Gudauri.

  • Abandoned Cross viewpoint behind TbilisIstanbul cafe. It’s hard to spot from the road, you have to slip behind the building and walk about 20 meters.
  • Gudauri. Georgia’s top ski resort. Packed in winter, ghost town in summer. Lifts don’t run, but you can scope out hotels for a future trip. Just a quick drive-through is enough.
  • Gudauri View Point. The most popular viewpoint past Gudauri, packed with tour buses. Getting a photo without strangers in the background can be a battle.
  • Alternative photo spot (42.497935, 44.446240). Fewer people here. From this hill, you can paraglide over the gorge — prices start at 350 GEL per flight in 2025.
  • Travertine mineral springs. A short scramble uphill.
  • Stepantsminda (Kazbegi). The town itself isn’t remarkable, but the star is Gergeti Trinity Church on the hill above. From here, you get breathtaking views of Mount Kazbek (the 7th-highest peak in the Caucasus) and the surrounding mountains. It’s worth the trip even on a cloudy day — the weather shifts constantly, and the clouds may part at any moment. A new paved road leads right up to the church, fine for any car. Or, if you want to burn off your khachapuri, hike it: About 40 minutes, 2.7 km, 452 m of elevation gain. The trail’s beautiful.
  • Gveleti Waterfalls. To reach the upper falls, you’ll need a jeep, otherwise there’s an easy 2 km hike.
  • Juta–Chaukhi Lake hike. About 1,5 hours each way for the most spectacular mountain scenery we’ve seen in Georgia (yes, even Kazbek takes second place). If you do this hike, plan to stay overnight in Juta or Stepantsminda.

Svaneti

Route: Tbilisi/Batumi — Mestia — Ushguli — Tetnuldi

You can easily drive up to this mountain region from either Batumi or Tbilisi. But once you’re there, getting around the remote highland villages is better left to the locals. Plan on at least two days here, though four would be even better.

  • Mestia — the largest town in the region. It has plenty of hotels, restaurants, and even a couple of interesting museums. Definitely carve out a day to explore the surrounding mountains. One of the best short hikes is up to the viewpoint called The Cross Over Mestia.
  • Hatsvali Cable Car Upper Station — offers a killer view of the mountains. The lift doesn’t run in summer, but you can still drive up by car.
  • The Swings in Keshkili — the location is a bit vague, but trust me, it’s one of the most magical spots on the outskirts of Mestia. Google Maps won’t show you a proper road, but if you switch to satellite view, you’ll see a dirt track leading right there. There’s a small hotel with a lovely property, but the real highlight are those swings.
  • Ushguli — a high-altitude community made up of several tiny villages, famous for their breathtaking views and those iconic Svan towers. Set aside a full day for this trip: At least three hours to wander the area, plus about two hours each way on the road.
  • The Tower of Love — on the way to Ushguli. It’s not much different from the other towers, except for its rather questionable legend. You can actually climb inside and make it to the very top, price is 2 GEL.
  • Tetnuldi — if you still haven’t had enough of mountains, spend an extra day at the Tetnuldi ski resort. The views are incredible both in summer and winter.
  • Treks to Chalaadi Glacier, Koruldi Lakes, or Ushba (Shdugra) Waterfalls — only go with a guide! Even the easy trails can turn dangerous with Svaneti’s unpredictable weather. Tour agencies offering guided treks are easy to find right in Mestia along Queen Tamar Street.

Kakheti

sighnaghi

Route: Tbilisi — Sighnaghi — Alazani Valley — Telavi — Tbilisi

Georgia’s most famous wine region. You’ve definitely heard of the Alazani Valley — if not in person, then at least from wine labels. This is where it’s at and you can see most of the highlights in a single day trip from Tbilisi.

  • Sighnaghi — also known as the city of love, complete with a handful of romantic legends (most of which were conveniently invented during Saakashvili’s presidency). Once just a lovely village on a cliff, it got a makeover: Restored houses, spruced-up streets, English signs… and voila! Sighnaghi became one of the most visited towns in Georgia. To be fair, it really is gorgeous: Red-roofed houses, cobblestone alleys, and sweeping views over the Alazani Valley.
  • Shumi Winery — offers a guided tour of the factory (10 GEL) and tastings (20–40 GEL). This was the best winery tour I’ve ever taken!
  • Telavi — the largest town in the area, good for a quick gas stop or supermarket run. Don’t miss Nadikvari Park for city views and the local celebrity — a 900-year-old plane tree.
  • Ikalto Monastery — one of Georgia’s oldest monuments, built in the 6th century.
  • Alaverdi Monastery — another monastery, with a large complex where you can wander and peek at ancient wine-making facilities.
  • Nekresi Monastery — perched on a hill, with epic valley views.
  • Granelli Winery — hands down the best Kindzmarauli wine I’ve ever tried.
  • Saperavi Restaurant at Khareba Winery — a gorgeous spot to stroll around, and if the weather’s nice, you can even have lunch in a tower overlooking the Alazani Valley.

Want to read more? Here’s our list of the best wineries in the country of Georgia (some with accommodation, too!).

Renting a car in Georgia — my review

Renting a car in Georgia

My experience with renting and driving in Georgia was overall excellent. A lot of that comes down to two things — how stunning this country is, and the fact that I prepared well. Here’s what helped:

🔹Booked through Localrent with super CDW insurance and zero deductible

🔹Reserved a familiar, easy-to-drive model in advance

🔹Did some prep work on local roads and best tips for driving in Georgia (which I’ve shared with you in this guide to driving in Georgia together with the best ideas for day trips from Tbilisi here)

I’d only recommend driving here if you have solid experience behind the wheel. Georgian driving culture is… a bit different from Europe’s. For beginners, it can be stressful, and at times even dangerous.

Quick note on mobile internet. Coverage is good, even along the highways. At the airport, you can grab an unlimited SIM valid for 15 days for 49 GEL, or get the same price deal in town but valid for a full month. Not much of a difference either way.

Pros and cons of renting a car

wine tasting in Kakheti

From my own experience, here are the perks of renting your own car:

  • You don’t need to buy tours or sit through boring group excursions — you build your own route around what interests you
  • You can stumble on hidden gems by taking that random turn you weren’t supposed to
  • No time limits. If you fall in love with a place, you can spend the whole day there
  • Police aren’t out hunting tourists for bribes like in some countries. Drive properly and nobody bothers you
  • And let’s be real, Georgia has the best car rental search engine — Localrent. Affordable, straightforward, and traveler-friendly

But of course, there are downsides too:

— You can’t drink wine. And let me tell you, staring at a mountain panorama with a steaming plate of khinkali, it’s hard to resist a glass of Kindzmarauli. But nope, not if you’re the driver

— During peak season, finding a good car is tough. Finding one at a reasonable price is even tougher

— You can’t always predict road conditions. One moment it’s smooth asphalt, then suddenly it turns into gravel. Sometimes whole sections collapse after heavy rain. When that happens, you’ll have to turn back, and that wasted time can sting.

Another big plus is that you can easily reach some amazing hotels tucked away outside the cities. Staying in one feels like a mini-vacation within your vacation.

Here are the places we stayed this trip:

🏨 5* Rooms Hotel Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) — the iconic mountain hotel with that terrace overlooking Mount Kazbek.

pool in rooms hotel Kazbegi Room in Rooms hotel Kazbegi

🏨 Hotel Qvevrebi (Kakheti) — a super unique stay where the rooms are shaped like qvevri, the giant clay vessels used for making Georgian wine. You wake up with vineyards and mountains right outside your window.

qvevrebi hotel kakheti qvevrebi hotel kakheti 2

🏨 5* Rooms Hotel Tbilisi (Tbilisi) — the Rooms brand expanded beyond Stepantsminda, and it was fun to try their urban take. Pretty solid.

room hotel Tbilisi room hotel Tbilisi 2

🏨 5* Artizan Design Hotel (Tbilisi) — loved this one even more than Rooms! Brand new, stylish, calmer vibe, with a fantastic coffee shop downstairs.

Artizan hotel Tbilisi

🏨 4* Communal Hotel Plekhanovi (Tbilisi) — we were on a mission to try all the boutique design hotels in Tbilisi. This one charmed us with quirky interiors (in the best way) and even had a jazz speaker in the room. Heads up, though — no elevator, no parking.

🏨 Hotel Chateau Iveri (Adjara) — about an hour inland from Batumi, tucked into emerald-green hills. A proper chateau with its own vineyard and views. We tasted the most unusual red wine here, and it was actually delicious.

🏨 Garden Rooms (Kutaisi) — a decent overnight stop.

🏨 5* Courtyard by Marriott Batumi (Batumi) — this one didn’t quite live up to our expectations. Don’t get me wrong, it’s clean, spacious, has free parking, but the price per night felt steep for what it was.

What if you don’t rent a car in Georgia?

No worries, you can still spend days exploring slowly on foot or with short excursions. Just walking around whichever city you’re based in with a little help from Google, or with a guided tour (GetYourGuide.com will have you covered with that). You could spend a week in Tbilisi alone and still not see it all.

There’s also GoTrip — a great private driver service. You enter your route, get the price upfront, and off you go. It’s perfect if no one in your group has a license, or if you’re traveling with enough people to fill more than a regular car. Filters on the site let you pick your driver based on reviews, and cars by type and size.

If it’s your first time in Georgia, this option is worth considering. Here’s why:

  • Total freedom of route. The driver takes you wherever you want and patiently waits while you snap hundreds of photos
  • Conversation. Georgian drivers are usually super chatty — you’ll end up discussing politics, traditions, or just life in general
  • Local secrets. Drivers often know the best photo angles, where to buy the tastiest churchkhela, might share their homemade wine, or even invite you home for a proper Georgian feast. Just note that it’s not a guided tour, so don’t expect formal commentary

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